DR HOLLY ON GROWING YOUR OWN FOOD:  What about the manure

Last Update: September 21, 2020 at 3:32 pm

DATE:  Sept 16, 2020



DR HOLLY ON GROWING YOUR OWN FOOD:  What about the manure




Wednesdays at NOON PST  / 3PM EST – The Whole Health Initiative with Dr Holly  – An NFTS Global Luminary  broadcasting from Canada since March 2014 –   Dr Holly is a Doctor of Natural Medicine, a scientist, a professional speaker, an author of Cancer: Why what you don’t know about your treatment could harm you and 12 other books and a practitioner.  As a Doctor of Natural Medicine with 7 degrees & 3 designations in a wide range of healing modalities and 20 years experience, she can assist you in identifying and understanding your path to health. She can identify your underlying life themes, coping mechanisms, value systems and defense mechanisms to understanding the physiology and biochemistry and energy patterns of your body.  She has a mobile health clinic that comes to your door and can assess 1000s of variables in front of you AND create a protocol unique to you.  In addition, she provides consultation for physicians and clients around the world.




Garden Series for NFTS – Sept 16 2020

What about the manure

Well that depends – oh yeah, just like everything else….

The factors you may want to take into consideration are:

  • Soil Improvement
  • NPK of manure
  • Herbicide content
  • Antibiotic content
  • Pathogens
  • Degree of digestion by the animal
  • Availability
  • Weed seeds

I am personally looking for the following:

Soil improvement:

  • increasing nutrient : minerals (nitrate, phosphate, calcium, potassium, magnesium) micronutrients
  • microbe population: hugely important; good healthy microbes is probably one of the most important factors for growing a huge amount of produce and quicker than others soil structure, remember we talked about the different types of soil, sand, clay, loamy, etc.
  • drainage : composting increases drainage in the soil

Some general rules of thumb are:

  • Rabbit manure doesn’t need to be composted before being used
  • Hot manures tend to have a low C:N ratio; allowing the manure to sit and compost increase the relative nitrogen level
  • Fresh cattle manure tends to have a better NPK aka nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, than horse

The challenge is:

  • What were the animals fed
  • Were they given anti-biotics
  • Is there herbicide content in the manure
  • Pathogenic material in the manure

So all I can tell you is what I do:

  • I always get organic manure
  • I get chicken, cattle and horse manure – don’t get rabbit because I don’t have any close to me.
  • I always let it sit and compost for a few months before using
  • So when I am shutting down the gardens in the fall – I spread kitchen compost that I have composted in a rotator
  • Then I cover with the garden greens that I have cut during the growing season – I have colorful leaf bags around the garden so that I am composting all the time. Remember that when you are cutting leaves back – make sure you get a lot of good healthy green stuff – that is still full of nutrient. Once the leaf is brown and dying, the stem, trunk, whatever, has absorbed all the nutrients and there isn’t a lot left. So good healthy pruning this year is great for next year – and tomato plants and zucchini or squash plants probably require the most pruning – so lots of good stuff there.
  • Then I cover with the horse manure, then cow manure, then chicken manure
  • The reason for this layering is that each layers helps to compost the prior layer

In the spring I have awesome soils – nutrient dense with good healthy microbes. The production of produce is quicker and more abundant.

Now if you only have room for deck or window sill planting – this obviously doesn’t work. And you may want to resort to purchasing manure. Most commercially purchased manure has the same NPK from what I can gather. And they don’t tell you about what the animals were fed on, injected with, or how long it was composted/aged/or rotted.

You may also want to add some worms to keep the soils moving.